The simplicity of a Perpetual

Not long ago, and shortly after reluctantly selling my JLC Perpetual Calendar (it wasn’t being worn, and it transpires that I’m not really into gold watches) I completed a trade that saw my 4th Glashutte Original arrive in the post, with a Milgauss GV and a bundle of cash having gone off in the other direction. It was a fantastic opportunity, too, because this new arrival is in fact the beautiful Senator Perpetual Calendar, which means that the PC void has been very quickly filled. It also means that after letting some lovely GO’s go (ahem) in the past, this fantastic manufacturer is represented once again, and this time it’ll be for the long term.

The Senator Perpetual Calendar is the 40mm model (reference 100-02-13-02-04) that was discontinued in favour of it’s 42mm successor in or around late 2011. This was a mistake in my opinion, because the same movement (more on that in a second) was simply popped into a bigger case with a larger bezel. I think that this model is much nicer in terms of aesthetics and overall scale, and this particular watch has an added sense of provenance in that it was bought from Jeffrey Hess (who wrote that book with James Dowling) as unworn/NIB just last November. In reaching me it was still as new, and bearing in mind that the current Senator PC lists at around £15k I reckon I’ve been rather lucky to have got my hands on this one.

The dial is beautifully balanced, with day, month, date and moonphase positioned in each of the four corners. The dot below the 12 marker is a year “type” indicator, and this is how the perpetual element of the movement does its work. Yellow (as it is at present) indicates one year after a leap year; black is two years after; white is one year before a leap year; and red signifies a leap year itself. In setting the PC, the year type is adjustable by a dedicated pusher recessed into the case, as in fact are the day, month and moonphase indicators. However, as well as all functions being independently adjustable, there’s also a “master” adjustment that will simply progress all the functions in unison. Absolutely brilliant!

The movement is GO’s top of the line 100 series – in this case the 100-02, which contains 59 jewels, beats at 28,800 vph and provides a power reserve of 55 hours. Typically of all GO watches, the movement is exquisitely finished with the usual bevelled edges, polishing and engraving; a lovely swan neck regulator, and a skeletonised rotor with 21k gold oscillation weight. I have to admit that I’m no longer surprised when I see GO movements, as I now know what to expect; however, they really are things of beauty.

Obviously, I’m completely overjoyed!

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